The idea, theory and development of the original unit is credited to: Robert (Bob) C. Beck, D. Sc. USA.

While the original circuit is perfectly OK for home construction, it lacks convenient features desired by most users.

The original circuit may be simple but it uses no less than 7 batteries: three 9 V in series to make the 27 V supply, and four AAs to power the IC and the relay. Unlike the Hulda Clark type zappers, this is not a high frequency unit. It can be considered pulsating DC since it reverses polarity about 4 times a second. (bi-phasic, not ordinary square wave) In the original design, a relay is used for polarity reversal. (Not only does a relay use a lot of power to operate but in a 1 hour 'zapping' session it will click about 14,400 times. Being a mechanical device, it cannot match the reliability and life expectancy of an electronic switch.) The relay is replaced with an electronic switching circuit (H-bridge). Only one 9 V battery is used. A precision DC-DC converter generates the required 27 V. This voltage remains stable down to about 4 to 4.5 V battery voltage­with the great advantage that the 'zapping' voltage remains the same throughout the useful life of the battery­until the battery almost literally drops dead.

This guarantees effective zapping at all times.

(Needless to say, this single battery needs to be replaced more often than the 7 batteries used in the original design. However, this is far more convenient than replacing 7. ) Zapper current is limited to l0mA­the maximum allowed for the human body. Short circuit current is also l0mA, so the unit cannot be damaged if the probes are shorted. The 3.9 Hz oscillator is also modified slightly.

To save battery power, a single flashing light (LED) is used to indicate; 1. unit operating, 2. polarity reversal, 3. battery condition.

In contrast to the large, hand-held probes for the Hulda Clark type zappers, the electrodes for this zapper are tiny and they must be placed and secured­according to the latest protocol­precisely over the two main blood arteries, on the same wrist. As the electrode placement may take a few seconds, automatic turn-on is not desirable so the circuit is designed to work in a semi-automatic fashion. Make a sea salt water solution by mixing 1 part sea salt to 3 parts water (approx. 25 % solution) and fill the supplied dropper bottle. Thoroughly wet the cotton covered electrodes (must be cotton !) with this solution, for maximum conductivity. During a 'zapping session', every 20 minutes or so, drop a couple of drops onto the probes to keep them saturated. Make absolutely sure not to get the elastic between the probes saturated. (If you do. the current will flow between the probes. instead of in your blood).

Bob Beck suggests marking these two 'sites' of your pulses (arteries) with 3 little dots for each pulse, 6 in all­with a permanent ink pen­or even a tattoo! Remember, you will need to use this blood cleaner every day for 1 hour or more, (depending on your condition) for a while and once you are free of the 'freeloaders', you would want to keep it that way! Once the electrodes have been place­and secured by the elastic wrist band­and the wires are secured further up your arm by the strain relief band­the unit is turned on by pressing the "ON" button. This also starts the 30 minute timer­and the buzzer emits a loud beep. Starting from minimum setting, the output control is adjusted to a level which the user is comfortable with. (After a few minutes, the 'pulsing' sensation is lessened and the level can­and should be­increased.)

30 minutes later, the buzzer emits another loud beep and the unit is turned off automatically. For manual timing­or for terminating the 'session' at any time­a second push-button is provided for the "OFF" function.

To make colloidal silver, it is logical that we need a bit higher potential than what we get from a single 9 volt battery­before any appreciable current flows through our high resistance distilled water. In the 'works' of the 27 volt 'zapper', we already have a 27 volt source. When 'zapping', we use the polarity reversing circuit­we don't when making colloidal silver. There are separate outputs for the 'zapper' and the CSM, so, if desired, both can be used at the same time. NOTE; the timer is common to both functions.

Use only distilled water. To make a solution; fill the provided glass gar with distilled water to where the curved section ends. (The volume of water is then exactly 200ml) Fit the plastic cap with the two holes in it. (A second cap is also provided­without holes­for storing the solution, if desired.) Plug the two silver rods into their respective sockets on the bottom of the unit and place it on the top of the jar so that the two banana sockets holding the silver rods are located in the holes. Turn 'ON' by pressing the green circle and turn it 'OFF' by pressing the red circle if you decide to terminate the process manually. For automatic operation, just turn it 'ON' and the timer will turn it 'OFF' after 30 minutes, alerting you with a 'beep'.

When colloidal silver is being made with distilled water, the CSM light will start with a faint glow. It will gradually increase in brightness for about 2­5 minutes, depending on water quality. Once the constant current limit of 500uA is reached, it will have a constant brightness­irrespective of water quality or length of time­due to the use of a constant current generator. This set current cannot be exceeded even if a short circuit is placed across the output indefinitely.

To reduce the possibility of large (visible) particle cluster formation (which could happen with some waters), stir the solution after the first 10 to 15 minutes and then continue the process. For a higher number of ppm solution, clean the silver rods and then repeat the process (another 30 minutes) but make sure to stir every 10 minutes. When finished, pull out the silver rods, clean them under running water from the tap with the supplied cleaning pad.

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